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	<title>David Drake &#187; England</title>
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	<description>Science Fiction &#38; Fantasy Writer</description>
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		<title>Newsletter #58</title>
		<link>http://david-drake.com/2010/newsletter-58/</link>
		<comments>http://david-drake.com/2010/newsletter-58/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 00:04:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Newsletters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dr Syn]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dymchurch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Out of the Waters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Politically correct]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Radio panel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Yard work]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://david-drake.com/?p=2854</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Dear People, I&#8217;m completely wrung out, but I&#8217;m going to be even more exhausted soon. I finished the rough draft of OUT OF THE WATERS, the second fantasy in the new Tor series at 154,384 words and have just completed making manuscript changes in my hardcopy mss.  Anything you do with a book that long [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dear People,</p>
<p>I&#8217;m completely wrung out, but I&#8217;m going to be even more exhausted soon. I finished the rough draft of OUT OF THE WATERS, the second fantasy in the new Tor series at 154,384 words and have just completed making manuscript changes in my hardcopy mss.  <span id="more-2854"></span></p>
<p>Anything you do with a book that long takes a lot of time and effort. The next stage is to key in those myriad changes. This is truly a brutal job, and the fact that I&#8217;ve done in many times only means that I know what it&#8217;s going to feel like for the next couple weeks. (For you fellow pedants, a myriad is 10,000. And since my first stage changes involve in the order of 5-10% of the rough draft wordage, I will literally be keying in a myriad changes.)</p>
<p>OUT OF THE WATERS wasn&#8217;t one of my working titles. The Tor sales force decided that because the series title is The Books of the Elements, I should have the word &#8216;water&#8217; in this title as &#8216;fire&#8217; was in the first.</p>
<p>If the sales force requested I pose in a pink tutu for the jacket photo, I would be calling friends who know something about ballet. (Hmm: no, I would be calling the friend who is an expert seamstress, because I really doubt I&#8217;m going to find an off-the-shelf tutu that would fit me.) Anyway, I came up with a number of &#8216;water&#8217; titles and they picked the one that best satisfied them.</p>
<p>Stacy, the truly wonderful editor who handles my liaison with Tor, suggested DOWN TO EARTH for the third book. That works for me.</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t know if WATERS is any good. I&#8217;m laughing frequently as I read it, but I&#8217;m not sure that most of the humor will appeal to anybody but veterans and people who can appreciate the literary minutiae which two of the scholarly characters use to center themselves in a crisis. (And I don&#8217;t expect the two categories will be laughing at the same jokes. Though I&#8217;m a veteran who used to carry Horace in the cargo pocket of my fatigues.) It&#8217;s got some good stuff in it; and I sure hope that other people will like it.</p>
<p>Incidentally, it&#8217;s 30K words longer than Tor needed to be and at least 15K longer than I originally intended. I think readers gain by the expansion, but it&#8217;s been a darned heavy rock I&#8217;ve rolled uphill for the last long while.</p>
<p>We&#8217;re (my wife Jo and I are) back from a wonderful and relaxing week in England. More precisely, a week in Kent. One of the wonderful things about Southeastern England is that you could spend much longer than the time we had making day-trips to amazing and historical places.</p>
<p>We got lots of pictures, a <a href="http://david-drake.com/2010/england-2010/">few of which will be on the website</a> by the time this goes out.<a href="../../2010/england-2010/" target="_blank"></a> I have something of a travelogue, but I need to personalize it before I put it up. I&#8217;ll mention only one thing here: I&#8217;ve now seen the Romney Marshes and Dymchurch, a center of smuggling during the Eighteenth century and the setting of the Dr Syn novels by A Russell Thorndike&#8211;written in the &#8217;30s but which I read in the &#8217;70s.</p>
<p>These are remarkable books, and in some ways remarkably good. The visit has caused me to start rereading the series and to begin thinking about the RCN novel which I hope to plot as soon as I&#8217;ve put WATERS to bed. There&#8217;s so much neat stuff in the world, and it&#8217;s all grist for a writer&#8217;s mill!</p>
<p>The latest RCN space opera, WHAT DISTANT DEEPS, has been in my hands for several weeks and will probably be in stores by the time you see this. Steve Hickman&#8217;s cover is lovely. There is foiling, but the foil used isn&#8217;t as striking as some versions. (It&#8217;s apparently the printer&#8217;s proprietary foil rather than the foil Jennie [designer and friend] and Steve [artist and friend] wanted.) I cannot advise you to buy DEEPS for the foiling, though of course I hope you&#8217;ll buy it anyway.</p>
<p>And the paperback of IN THE STORMY RED SKY, the immediately previous RCN space opera, is certainly out. I&#8217;m taking a lot of pleasure in the series and indeed in writing generally. Varying what I write (at present between fantasy and space opera) keeps me from becoming either stale or bored.</p>
<p>I mention that I&#8217;m having fun with what I&#8217;m doing in part because I turn 65 on September 24 (2010). Judging from the mail and phone calls (despite being on a no-call list!) I&#8217;m getting, most people my age are retiring and desperately afraid of their medical situation.</p>
<p>I like what I&#8217;m doing. Besides, writing has kept me (more or less) between the ditches since I got back to the World in 1971. I&#8217;m nowhere near the danger to myself and those with whom I come in contact that I was at one time, but it still isn&#8217;t a system that I&#8217;m in a hurry to change.</p>
<p>And I&#8217;m in good physical shape for a man of my age in a sedentary occupation. For the past couple years now, I&#8217;ve been clearing brush on our 23-acre yard. This involves cutting the trunks/stems with an axe or heavy loppers; grinding the small stuff up in a (5-horse) chipper/shredder and cutting the heavier pieces to firewood length with a collapsible buck-saw; and then grubbing out the roots with a pick-mattock.</p>
<p>The emphasis on hand tools (the chipper/shredder is the exception) is for two reasons. First, I hate and fear power tools. Second and more important, I&#8217;m doing this not to clear the property (though that&#8217;s a useful byproduct) but to keep fit. Believe me, it works.</p>
<p>I&#8217;m not pretending I&#8217;m not old: I am old. But you don&#8217;t have to give up and let yourself go physically to hell just because you (like me) make your living in front of a computer.</p>
<p>I replaced my back-up motorcycle, a 2000 Suzuki GS500E with a 2009 Suzuki GS500F. The main difference between the two is that the new one has 42K fewer miles on it. The new one also has a fairing (which I figure is a wash&#8211;greater weight against better streamlining&#8211;for my usage, commuting) and a significantly larger gas tank (a real advantage). There&#8217;s a<a href="http://david-drake.com/2010/new-bike/"> picture of me with it</a> in the showroom on the website.</p>
<p>WUNC-FM, the flagship public radio station in the state, asked Baen Books to provide a writer who could join a panel on space with a philosopher and the head of the NC Space Initiative. The writer turned out to be me. This didn&#8217;t strike me as any big deal (I&#8217;ve been on lots of panels in my lifetime), and at some level I wondered if anybody was listening. (It aired at noon on a 100KW station that covers the whole center of the state, so intellectually I knew that somebody was listening.)</p>
<p>What I didn&#8217;t expect is that friends who didn&#8217;t know I was going to be on the air (I didn&#8217;t bother to tell anybody) would be excited to hear me. I guess it was a special case of the fact that  non-writers think it&#8217;s a bigger deal that I am a writer than it is to me.</p>
<p>It went all right. The link is at <a href="http://wunc.org/tsot/archive/The_Final_Frontier.mp3/view" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/wunc.org/tsot/archive/The_Final_Frontier.mp3/view?referer=');">http://wunc.org/tsot/archive/The_Final_Frontier.mp3/view</a> , but my portion starts at the 40+ minute mark.</p>
<p>Finally, an odd datum which nonetheless brings up a useful point. I got an email through Baen Books from a guy who claimed to have read most of my books. I had gratuitously and unrealistically added  homosexuality to (one of the RCN novels) in order to be Politically Correct, however. Therefore he would never read anything of mine again.</p>
<p>Given that some of the characters in my stories (as in my life) for as far back as 1974 have been gay, I suspect his claim to have read a lot my stuff to be as dishonest as the burden of his comment is silly. (Mind, other characters in my stories are likely to refer to the gay ones as queers, which I don&#8217;t think counts as Politically Correct.)</p>
<p>But there&#8217;s a deeper implication, which is that writers slant their fiction to suit their market (which starts out being their editor, note). Some writers probably do; I don&#8217;t.</p>
<p>Now&#8211;I make decisions based on what I think will sell. That may well change what I write, but it won&#8217;t change how I write it. That is, some years ago I had a notion for an adventure story set in Africa. I pitched it to Tom Doherty, who explained that historically, books set in Africa didn&#8217;t sell well. I therefore wrote something else. (The Lord of the Isles, as it turned out.)</p>
<p>Furthermore, I made the conscious decision that the major villains in my fantasy novels were going to be non-human. The field after the climactic battle was going to have piles of giant rats, insects, zombies, or whatever; but not human beings. I&#8217;ve described tens of thousands of human corpses in the past, but I wasn&#8217;t going to do that in my new fantasies.</p>
<p>I don&#8217;t think that makes me PC, though. As a matter of fact, that accusation still makes me giggle.</p>
<p>Now, to start keying in the holographic edits. Forward the Light Brigade&#8230;.</p>
<p><em>–Dave Drake</em></p>
<p><em>***<br />
Please use the <a href="http://david-drake.com/contact/">contact form</a> to subscribe  to the newsletter or to change your e-mail address.</em></p>
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		<title>England 2010</title>
		<link>http://david-drake.com/2010/england-2010/</link>
		<comments>http://david-drake.com/2010/england-2010/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Sep 2010 14:34:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jo Drake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lambshead family]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://david-drake.com/?p=2824</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2826" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2826 " title="Chartwell" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-015.jpg" alt="Chartwell" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Jo Drake and Val Lambshead at the rear of Chartwell, Churchill&#39;s house.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2828" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2828" title="Travelers at Chartwell" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-025.jpg" alt="Travelers at Chartwell" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Drakes and Lambsheads at Chartwell.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2830" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2830" title="Lullingstone" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-042.jpg" alt="Lullingstone" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Lullingstone, a Roman headquarters expanded under Governor (and briefly Emperor) Pertinax in the 2nd century AD.</p></div>
<p><span id="more-2824"></span></p>
<div id="attachment_2832" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2832 " title="Battle" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-058.jpg" alt="Battle" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Battle (familiarly Hastings)--taken from the Saxon line across the field up which William&#39;s horsemen charged.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2833" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2833" title="Battle Abbey" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-067.jpg" alt="Battle Abbey" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The interior of Battle Abbey, built under William the Conqueror in the 11th century and abandoned at the Dissolution under Henry VIII in the 16th. Sic transit gloria mundi.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2835" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2835" title="Dymchurch seawall" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10jo-018.jpg" alt="Dymchurch seawall" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Dave and John Lambshead on the seawall at Dymchurch.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2836" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2836" title="Dr Syn B&amp;B" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-117.jpg" alt="Dr Syn B&amp;B" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Dr Syn Bed and Breakfast in Dymchurch.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2838" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2838" title="Eltham Palace Bridge" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-125.jpg" alt="Eltham Palace Bridge" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The moat (built by the Bishop of Durham ca 1300) and bridge (the piers date from Edward IV in the 15th century) at Eltham Palace.</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2839" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 410px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2839" title="Eltham Palace Gardens" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/eng10d-146.jpg" alt="Eltham Palace Gardens" width="400" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">A passage in the gardens at Eltham Palace.</p></div>
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		<title>Greetings from England</title>
		<link>http://david-drake.com/2010/e-postcard/</link>
		<comments>http://david-drake.com/2010/e-postcard/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Aug 2010 18:11:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Newsletters]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://david-drake.com/?p=2808</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_2809" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 298px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2809" title="Rainham postcard" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/rainham-postcard.jpg" alt="Rainham postcard" width="288" height="432" /><p class="wp-caption-text">August 7, 2010:  Hello from Rainham--  Dave is in Kent, seeing neat stuff. He hopes to get a newsletter off next month--after the novel is done.  --Dave</p></div>
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		<title>Hammer’s Slammers Gaming, England 2004</title>
		<link>http://david-drake.com/2004/hs-gaming-england/</link>
		<comments>http://david-drake.com/2004/hs-gaming-england/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 May 2004 13:07:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Hammer's Slammers Games]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Hammer's Slammers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Iain Dickie]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[John Lambshead]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[John Treadaway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Miniatures]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Old Crow Models]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Salute]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://david-drake.com/wordpress/?p=1886</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Pictures from Salute in 2004, a wargames show held by the South London Warlords. Accompanies England Travel Narrative]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Pictures from <a href="http://www.salute.co.uk/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.salute.co.uk/?referer=');">Salute</a> in 2004, a wargames show held by the South London Warlords.<br />
<em>Accompanies<a href="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/2004/england-travel-narrative-2004/"> England Travel Narrative</a></em></p>
<div id="attachment_1888" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 302px"><img class="size-full wp-image-1888  " title="Hammer's Display" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/slammers119.jpg" alt="Hammer's Display" width="292" height="259" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Iain Dickie, Dave, and John Lambshead at the Hammer&#39;s Slammers display at Salute</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1887" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 258px"><img class="size-full wp-image-1887 " title="The Battle of Naseby" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/naseby185.jpg" alt="The Battle of Naseby" width="248" height="309" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Battle of Naseby (1644), set up at Salute in 6mm scale, with all distances in scale</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1893" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 294px"><img class="size-full wp-image-1893" title="John Treadaway and Dave" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/treadaway116.jpg" alt="John Treadaway and Dave" width="284" height="275" /><p class="wp-caption-text">John Treadaway and Dave at Salute</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1894" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 210px"><img class="size-full wp-image-1894" title="Jez and Dave" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/jezdavl.jpg" alt="Jez and Dave" width="200" height="149" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Jez from Old Crow Models and Dave </p></div>
<div id="attachment_1898" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 222px"><img class="size-full wp-image-1898 " title="Miniature Dave" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/mindave.jpg" alt="Miniature Dave" width="212" height="248" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Miniature Dave from Old Crow Models</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1901" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-1901" title="Dave with miniature" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/littledave-300x285.jpg" alt="Dave with miniature" width="300" height="285" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Dave with miniature Dave </p></div>
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		<title>Trip to England, April 2004 – Photos</title>
		<link>http://david-drake.com/2004/trip-to-england-2004/</link>
		<comments>http://david-drake.com/2004/trip-to-england-2004/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 12 May 2004 12:51:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Photos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jo Drake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lambshead family]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://david-drake.com/wordpress/?p=1877</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Accompanies Dave&#8217;s Travel Narrative]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em> Accompanies <a href="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/2004/england-travel-narrative-2004/">Dave&#8217;s Travel Narrative</a></em></p>
<div id="attachment_1878" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 258px"><img class="size-full wp-image-1878 " title="Upnor Castle" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/upnor91.jpg" alt="Upnor Castle" width="248" height="330" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The entrance to Upnor Castle on the Medway River</p></div>
<div id="attachment_1880" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 258px"><em><em><img class="size-full wp-image-1880  " title="Rochester Cathedral" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/rochester101.jpg" alt="Rochester Cathedral" width="248" height="330" /></em></em><p class="wp-caption-text">Rochester Cathedral from the battlements of Rochester Castle</p></div>
<p><span id="more-1877"></span></p>
<div id="attachment_2106" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 267px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2106" title="Gatehouse" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/gatehouse105-257x300.jpg" alt="Gatehouse" width="257" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Gatehouse in which Edwin Drood lives (in Dickens&#39; last novel)</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2108" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 288px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2108" title="Gannet" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/gannet125-300x224.jpg" alt="Gannet" width="278" height="208" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The composite sloop Gannet, built in 1878</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2111" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 295px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2111" title="The Lambsheads and Jo" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/crew137.jpg" alt="The Lambsheads and Jo" width="285" height="258" /><p class="wp-caption-text">John, Kirsten and Val Lambshead with Jo Drake aboard the Gannet</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2113" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 245px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2113" title="Mulberry Tree" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/mulberry153-235x300.jpg" alt="Mulberry Tree" width="235" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The 400 yr old mulberry tree in the garden of the Commissioner of Chatham Dockyard</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2115" class="wp-caption alignright" style="width: 262px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2115" title="Natural History Museum" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/nhm161-252x300.jpg" alt="Natural History Museum" width="252" height="300" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The Natural History Museum</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2117" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2117" title="Mosasaur" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/mosasaur197-300x192.jpg" alt="Mosasaur" width="300" height="192" /><p class="wp-caption-text">The mosasaur at the Crystal Palace Dinosaur Court</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2119" class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 310px"><img class="size-medium wp-image-2119" title="Leeds Castle" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/leeds10-300x186.jpg" alt="Leeds Castle" width="300" height="186" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Leeds Castle</p></div>
<div id="attachment_2121" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 458px"><img class="size-full wp-image-2121" title="Sissinghurst" src="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2004/05/sissinghurst51.jpg" alt="Sissinghurst" width="448" height="250" /><p class="wp-caption-text">Dave on the parapet of the folly at Sissinghurst</p></div>
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		<title>Trip to England, April 2004 &#8211; Travel Narrative</title>
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		<pubDate>Wed, 05 May 2004 16:55:53 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Essays]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[England]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jo Drake]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Lambshead family]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Salute]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Travel]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Dave&#8217;s Trip to England April 2004 Accompanies Photos of England and Photos of Salute War Gaming April 18: We left for RDU Airport at 3 PM for a 6 PM flight. Better safe than sorry, and I was nervously reading various things to keep from thinking about what was ahead. (Basically, the nebulous discomfort. I&#8217;m [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dave&#8217;s Trip to England April 2004<br />
<em>Accompanies <a href="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/2004/trip-to-england-2004/">Photos of England</a> and <a href="http://david-drake.com/wordpress/2004/hs-gaming-england/">Photos of Salute War Gaming</a><br />
</em></p>
<p>April 18: We left for RDU Airport at 3 PM for a 6 PM flight. Better safe than  sorry, and I was nervously reading various things to keep from thinking about  what was ahead. (Basically, the nebulous discomfort. I&#8217;m not a good  traveller.)</p>
<p>Just before leaving, Jo checked the weather channel. It said we could expect  seven days of rain. John Lambshead e-mailed that we should have a fast flight  because a gale had just blown in from the southwest. I sighed and said we were  going anyway. <span id="more-2124"></span></p>
<p>We got aboard a full USAir 737 with no real problems, though security was  badly worried by what turned out to be my tube of toothpaste. Was it the first  time somebody had brought toothpaste through their fluoroscopes? (I seem to be  one of the people who invariably bothers airport security. I&#8217;ve for years  stripped off all metal so that I don&#8217;t set off the magnetic detectors, but they  always get concerned about some utterly innocent thing.)</p>
<p>The Airbus 330-300 at Philadelphia was jammed (overbooked) also&#8211;they were  asking volunteers to go the next day. The RDU flight had been forced to circle  Philadelphia a couple times so by the time we arrived at the international gate  our row had been called. Airbus aisles are wider than those of a 737, and both  going and coming Jo and I had seats in an outer (two-seat) row; which, as these  things go, was better than it might&#8217;ve been.</p>
<p>We&#8217;d packed very lightly for the trip, limiting ourselves to carry-on only.  Most international flights I&#8217;ve taken with checked luggage have had a  problem&#8211;something doesn&#8217;t arrive with me (and a number of times nothing at all  arrived). I took two extra pairs of slacks (one of them a lightweight nylon pair  that rolls up very small), ten t-shirts, ten pairs of socks, a heavy  long-sleeved silk shirt, a heavy wool sweater (handmade by an Icelandic  housewife; a purchase on a previous trip); a nylon poncho (a Christmas gift from  Tor) and a rain hat which I&#8217;d gotten for Belize. This was sufficient for our  purposes (which didn&#8217;t include formal dining, though the silk shirt was  adequately dressy.)</p>
<p>For personal items I&#8217;d gotten a moderate-sized belly pack, having learned not  to trust cargo pockets alone in Belize. In it I carried documents, money, my  digital camera and the book I brought for the trip&#8211;Gregory of Tours <em>History  of the Franks</em>. I&#8217;d read it decades ago (actually, I read most of it in  Latin, a <em>Monumenta Germaniae Historica</em> folio volume, as an  undergraduate), but it&#8217;s the sort of work you can always find new material in. I  took the old (mass market) Penguin edition, which fit neatly.</p>
<p>My camera was a Canon A70. I went digital (having resisted) because of the  problems getting film through airports. I had a 256M card in it and carried a  128M card as backup. I wound up filling the first with 227 photos, and took five  more with the smaller card. I&#8217;d bought a new set of NiMH batteries for the  camera and charged them fully for the trip.</p>
<p>I considered but didn&#8217;t take a computer to download the photos into. It  struck me as too much of a hassle for the number of pictures I would take.  (Remember, I&#8217;m the guy who gets hassled over a toothpaste tube.)</p>
<p>I&#8217;m happy with the gear. I would do exactly the same thing again.</p>
<p>To my amazement I slept about four hours on the flight. I think it helped a  great deal. I wasn&#8217;t as cripplingly stiff as I expected to be either.</p>
<p>April 19: We deplaned in Gatwick. Customs and immigration were no problem&#8211;in  contrast to my past experiences with Canada and the US, for what it&#8217;s worth. We  followed directions to the bustling baggage and waiting area, where I looked for  John Lambshead. He&#8217;d told me he&#8217;d be wearing a red yachting jacket, which I  visualized as something semi-formal along the lines of a blazer. There was a man  in a red nylon windbreaker, who turned as I followed him wondering&#8211;and  recognized me. British English is <em>not</em> the same.</p>
<p>Thence to the car which he&#8217;d rented to drive us around in. I&#8217;d given him  <em>carte blanche</em>, but he wasn&#8217;t happy with the Nissan Primera he&#8217;d gotten.  It appears to have the body of an Altima but a stiffer (and quite good)  suspension and a smaller engine. John drives with skill and determination. The  Nissan has a wide turning circle, gauges in the center of the dash instead of in  front of the driver, and a peaky engine that frequently lugged when he tried to  accelerate as he&#8217;d have done in his own Vauxhall (which apparently has a broader  powerband).</p>
<p>He took us to the hotel he&#8217;d booked for us, the Maidstone Hilton. It&#8217;s a  relatively new place, built about ten years ago when the Channel Tunnel was  completed, but could&#8217;ve passed for much older (in a good way). The walls are  brick, the roof tiled, and there was quite a pleasant central courtyard with  awnings and external gas heaters.</p>
<p>Parenthetically, gasoline is much more expensive in England and cars tend to  be lighter, more efficient, and have smaller engines than US models. (1.6-1.8  liter displacements are normal.) However natural gas from the North Sea fields  is much cheaper than gasoline and is used widely in external heaters to heat  open (unroofed) courtyards.</p>
<p>I also saw many more SUVs in Britain than I&#8217;d been led to expect. Pickup  trucks are very rare (I only recall seeing one), but that appears to be a  response to frequent rainfalls rather than a desire for efficiency.</p>
<p>After we&#8217;d checked in and showered, John picked us up for lunch at a pub&#8211;the  White Rabbit (I honestly don&#8217;t know whether it was technically in Maidstone&#8211;as  I think it may have been&#8211;or a closely neighboring community). It was converted  from the officers&#8217; billet of the 7th Dragoons when that regiment was eliminated.  It was a friendly place with parking and good food. I had an open-faced sandwich  of bacon, mushrooms and other good things under melted cheddar cheese.  (Parenthetically, we ate well at every meal in England, and unfortunately I  gained a few pounds.)</p>
<p>We then headed for Leeds Castle, where we met John&#8217;s wife Val and their  younger (16-year-old) daughter Kirsten who&#8217;s studying for the exams which under  the English system will decide her academic future. (She&#8217;s holding up well under  what must be enormous stress.)</p>
<p>It&#8217;d been warm and sunny when we left the hotel. I&#8217;d worn my raincape on whim  but hadn&#8217;t bothered with my hat. It clouded up and spattered most of the later  afternoon; not serious, but the hat would&#8217;ve been a better idea.</p>
<p>Leeds is a picture-perfect castle in lovely grounds. There were peacocks in  the trees and a (fenced and gated) duckery on the entrance path. It&#8217;s of Norman  construction, entered through a fortified mill (of which only one wall remains,  showing the arrow slits), to an outwork, then the mott and bailey. The entrance  to the house proper is through the dog collar museum, showing four hundred years  of dog collars. (The British reputation for eccentricity is earned.)</p>
<p>In the wine cellar John noted that the breweries have been suffering lately  as the British are becoming a nation of wine drinkers. The interior is quite  attractive and remains in active use as a conference center. It&#8217;s a secure  location where (say) a G7 conference can be protected by a relatively small  number of security people. That&#8217;s what it was built for nearly a thousand years  ago, after all.</p>
<p>I noted with interest that the owners ca. 1800 were connected with the  Fairfax and Culpepper families, nobles who left their mark in Northern Virginia  and with whom George Washington was closely associated. The last private owner  (it&#8217;s now in public hands), Lady Baillie, had a large portrait of the 19th  century adventuress Lola Montez in her sitting room. No one was sure why.</p>
<p>We had tea and scones in the tea shop, and chatted very pleasantly among the  five of us. The Lambsheads are bright, friendly people whom it&#8217;s a delight to be  with.</p>
<p>Then to the aviary, which specializes in good-sized, colorful birds (and a  kea, which isn&#8217;t very colorful but was neat to see in the flesh. Feather.) It&#8217;s  quite noisy; John mentioned a colleague called him while he was standing there  and wondered which country he was in (as it&#8217;s a cell phone, that wasn&#8217;t  certain). There was also a maze, but we didn&#8217;t try it as John wasn&#8217;t sure of the  time it would take.</p>
<p>We went back to the hotel. We didn&#8217;t bother with dinner. I found the business  court, hoping there&#8217;d be a computer for guests so I could check webmail to see  how things were at home. There wasn&#8217;t, but a very nice staff person let me use  hers for the purpose. The English keyboard is subtly different from the US  version, which made the task difficult&#8211;particularly, I suppose, for those  trying to decipher my notes. All was well, or adequately well.</p>
<p>I tried to read a bit in the courtyard but the book kept dropping from my  hand as I fell asleep. I crashed and slept like a log.</p>
<p>April 20: We got up and had breakfast in the hotel. I felt stiff but not as  bad as I feared, and we seemed to have avoided jet lag.</p>
<p>John picked us up at 10 AM and took us into Maidstone (the county town) so I  could cash traveller&#8217;s checks. I expected to use credit cards for most things,  but I got $800 cash (413 pounds; the dollar is very weak) to pay John for the  car and so both of us had money for taxis, post cards, etc.</p>
<p>We started out at John&#8217;s bank, Barclay&#8217;s, but the lady there sent us to a  travel agency in a nearby shopping precinct. I&#8217;d gotten American Express checks.  Barclay&#8217;s handled Visa checks and the other high street banks were Master Card,  but to cash mine without a fee required going to the travel agents. (Not a  problem, just a comment.)</p>
<p>We visited a Games Workshop store on the way to the car. This is the largest  of the miniature wargames companies and is listed on the London Stock Exchange.  They&#8217;re very heavily promoting Lord of the Rings material, which for a time had  even outsold their own Warhammer games.</p>
<p>From Maidstone we headed north through the Green Belt over back roads. After  WW II it became obvious that London would absorb the whole region if it were  permitted to grow unchecked. With the support of all parties, a Green Belt in  which no new houses could be built was set up around the city. There are working  farms in the area, but they draw most of their income from tourism. Houses&#8211;or  anything that could be rebuilt internally as a house&#8211;are very expensive. The  area is green and lush and lovely, though of course the region beyond it is now  a bedroom for London.</p>
<p>We saw a fox cross the road&#8211;probably no more unusual than seeing a deer  where we live, but neat for visitors. There were&#8211;here and generally&#8211;vast  fields of rape in golden flower; probably what the EU is paying for this year in  the incredibly (and criminally) inept Common Agricultural Policy. (Still, it was  nice to see why the golden-haired Rapunzel was named after the field of rape  growing outside her mother&#8217;s window.)</p>
<p>On the way we got gas. The Primera requires high test (another penalty for a  high performance engine), so it cost me just under $50 to fill the tank. The  owner, by the way, pumped the gas&#8211;it wasn&#8217;t self service&#8211;in a coat and tie; he  had an upper class accent.</p>
<p>Our first stop was Penshurst Place, originally owned by the Sidneys.  Elizabethan history isn&#8217;t my period, but I&#8217;d heard of Sir Philip Sidney, the  courtier-poet and one of the people who make aristocracy sound like a good idea.  (Very shortly I&#8217;ll be discussing the Sackvilles, a useful antidote.)</p>
<p>Penshurst is much larger than Leeds Castle and has very extensive formal  gardens. The sections are arrayed according to a variety of styles: early,  Italian, French, and the later English style pioneered by Lancelot Brown,  nicknamed Capability. Near the entrance is a blind garden&#8211;a garden of odors and  for all I know textures&#8211;which won an award at the Chelsea Flower Show.</p>
<p>Entrance to the house itself was through the Banquet Hall, the original Great  Hall. It&#8217;d been modified over the centuries by closing the vent in the center of  the roof and adding fireplaces.</p>
<p>In the crypt below was a display of militaria from the later owners. These  included Lord Gort, who took the BEF to France in 1940, then&#8211;after Dunkirk,  which can&#8217;t be called a victory but was certainly a brilliantly managed  defeat&#8211;commanded Malta against very serious German attempts to capture it. (One  of the gardens is a Union Jack, but only the red [tulips] had come into bloom  when we arrived.) The displays included Gort&#8217;s field tea service, including a  cigarette lighter to start the gasoline stove to heat the tea kettle.</p>
<p>Looking down on the Hall (literally&#8211;through a squint, a hidden window) was  the ladies&#8217; salon. The variety of items on display in these two rooms included  15th century trestle tables, 16th century paintings, clocks (one dating back to  1520), armor (including leather helmets from Cromwell&#8217;s Ironsides), guns&#8211;mostly  matchlocks but with a few firelocks (fusils) mixed in, and (which particularly  struck me) a gaming table from 1740 with a petit-point top.</p>
<p>We left the house by the Lime Walk&#8211;that is, a corridor of linden trees&#8211;and  went to the Toy Museum which turned out to be an unexpected lot of fun. There  was a copy of the first ABC book (which was American, the guide pointed out),  many varieties of coloring book (often martial, with bold Britons running  Frenchmen through), paper theatres (one with the sets of Sleeping Beauty),  dolls, toy soldiers, skittles, Noah&#8217;s Arks (some carved by French prisoners  during the Napoleonic Wars).</p>
<p>There were also spellicans, the British equivalent of pick-up-sticks. They  differ by having complex carvings on one end instead of being simple poles, and  also in being made of ivory. (Which, I&#8217;ll admit, took me aback. Sometimes very  simple objects have an impact that no number of words can match.)</p>
<p>Because it was late, we didn&#8217;t try to see Hever Castle but instead stopped at  Sissinghurst, a 14th century manor with gardens laid out in the late 1920s by  Vita Sackville-West. I correctly recalled her as being a member of the  Bloomsbury Group; in fact she was Virginia Woolf&#8217;s lover. Her husband, Harold  Nicolson, was an associate of Oswald Moseley but broke with the latter when he  founded the British Union of Fascists in 1932. Nicolson later became a Labour MP  (!) and a member of Churchill&#8217;s wartime cabinet.</p>
<p>I suspect it was in an attempt to claim proletarian sympathies that the  gardens were opened to the public in 1938. The charge&#8211;a shilling&#8211;raised 25  pounds, which wasn&#8217;t money the couple would&#8217;ve bent to pick up off the  floor.</p>
<p>The brochure quotes Sackville-West as follows: &#8220;These mild gentlemen and  women who invade one&#8217;s garden after putting their silver token into the bowl &#8230;  are some of the people I most gladly welcome and salute.&#8221; Either the folks  editing the brochure were unaware of the snobbery (they note as well that  Sackville-West referred to the visitors as &#8220;shillingses&#8221;) or they approved  it.</p>
<p>While I obviously didn&#8217;t warm to the couple, the gardens they built were  wonderful. A four-story structure&#8211;which I believe is a folly, built to look  old, but may actually have been the gatehouse of a building demolished in the  18th century&#8211;has Sackville-West&#8217;s library and study, and from the parapet a  view over a wide region.</p>
<p>Below, sheltered nooks allowed early rhododendrons&#8211;including a lovely violet  one&#8211;to bloom, along with many other flowers. (I liked the wallflowers, here and  elsewhere in England. I&#8217;d heard of them but hadn&#8217;t previously seen them in  the&#8230; hmm; cytoplasm?) Bluebells were out this week, here very strikingly.</p>
<p>I was particularly taken by an Italianate feature: two yew hedges planted  within 30&#8243; of one another, forming a narrow aisle across a path. At the end of  the aisle was a bust.</p>
<p>There are writers whose work I greatly respect despite my feeling that  they&#8217;re reprehensible human beings. I guess I can apply the same standards to  gardens and their designers.</p>
<p>We met Val and Kirsten at the White Rabbit for dinner and further pleasant  conversation, thence to the hotel. While we could&#8217;ve seen most of the same  things had we come to England on our own, we probably wouldn&#8217;t have&#8211;and it  wouldn&#8217;t have been nearly as much fun.</p>
<p>April 21: We got up in a drizzle. I checked e-mail again and gave the office  staff signed bookmarks, which thrilled them. People in general think writers are  a bigger deal than I think writers are.</p>
<p>John took us through the towns of Medway and Rainham, pointing out the flower  boxes at intersections. These are paid for by taxes. Americans wouldn&#8217;t consider  it value for money; the British do. It isn&#8217;t a matter of who&#8217;s right: the  cultures are different, in this and many other ways.</p>
<p>As an aside, John was an ideal guide: intelligent, knowledgeable, and  enthusiastic. The trip was many times what it would&#8217;ve been without his  hospitality.</p>
<p>We followed a section of the Pilgrims&#8217; Way, leading to Canterbury. &#8216;The Bull&#8217;  is a common name for old pubs. It refers not to the animal but to the Papal Bull  the innkeeper had purchased to permit him to traffic with pilgrims. The area is  also where Tolkien came from, and the gnarled treeroots twisting out into sunken  lanes certainly suggest a possible genesis for the ents.</p>
<p>We passed the 11th century church in Rainham, on Watling Street&#8211;the Roman  road running through the region in a northwestern diagonal. These evidences of  antiquity are omnipresent in Kent, a very different thing from what &#8216;old  building&#8217; meant when I was assistant town attorney in Chapel Hill. I don&#8217;t  really have a frame of reference for it.</p>
<p>We then stopped in Gillingham, on the shore of the River Medway. What I&#8217;d  thought were water towers were actually the gasometers which feed North Sea  natural gas through the whole region. There&#8217;s a replica of a beacon identical to  those used in series to warn of invasion from before the Armada till after  Napoleon, and a view across the marshes to Sheerness. This is the region where  Beowulf was composed and very probably set; on a gray morning, one can see  why.</p>
<p>Thence to Cooling Castle and Cooling Church, way off the tourist routes. Both  are made of Kentish rag, flint nodules chipped from the chalk matrix. The  castle&#8217;s small and mostly ruined, but very picturesque. Wallflowers grew from it  and the crows wheeled about. The parish church is nothing special&#8211;but it was  the setting for the opening of <em>Great Expectations</em>: Pip meets Magwich  for the first time in Cooling churchyard. As I learned shortly in Rochester,  this is very generally Dickens country.<br />
We then went via back roads to Upnor  Castle on the Medway shore, past apple trees which are common in the region. For  some reason, they&#8217;re invariably polled here. (I didn&#8217;t meet any orchardists to  ask why.)</p>
<p>Upnor Castle lies just downriver from Chatham Dockyard. When the Dutch under  de Ruyter attacked the British fleet laid up in the Medway in 1667, Upnor was  the only place the British fought back.</p>
<p>Seeing the situation first hand suddenly brought the utter failure of the  Stuarts home to me. Charles II, who was in French pay, went to war with the  Dutch to aid France. This I knew. The Dutch attacked and burned or captured the  British fleet at anchor; this too I knew.</p>
<p>What I hadn&#8217;t fully appreciated was that the British fleet wasn&#8217;t manned  because Charles was spending his French bribes on whims rather than paying  sailors, and that de Ruyter didn&#8217;t launch a hit and run attack but rather spent  three days coming up river, systematically burning all military and naval  installations without facing any resistance. Finally at Upnor Castle somebody  shot back, and de Ruyter turned around&#8211;carrying with him the British flagship.  The Dutch weren&#8217;t really driven away, they just decided not to press their  luck.</p>
<p>Charles II is a very romantic figure, but he wasn&#8217;t just a bad king: he was  in the literal sense a traitor to his country. A visit to Upnor Castle made me  understand what forty years of study hadn&#8217;t taught me.</p>
<p>Then to Rochester, where wandering around the downtown we saw Dickens&#8217; summer  house (moved from neighboring Gad&#8217;s Hill) and many other buildings whose signs  noted that Dickens used them in this or that book. (It&#8217;s a tourist town, of  course.) The gatehouse in which Edwin Drood lived is among them.</p>
<p>Rochester Castle is the oldest stone castle in England. King John captured it  by undermining, but the fallen tower was rebuilt on a sturdier foundation. The  castle is ruined in the sense that all the floors and woodwork are gone, leaving  only the walls and the passages built into them&#8211;but those remains are massive  and awe-inspiring. The view of Rochester from the battlements is marvelous.</p>
<p>Here as with Cooling Castle I very much wished my son Jonathan could&#8217;ve been  along (work and parenthood made that impossible). He particularly likes castles,  and these were some honeys.</p>
<p>Rochester Cathedral is adjacent to the castle. It&#8217;s the oldest English  Christian church (as opposed to Roman Christian church in what is now England).  It&#8217;s impressive in itself, and had a particular fillip for me: there&#8217;s a plaque  in the wall to Colonel Chard, who as Lieutenant Chard commanded the scratch  force holding Rorke&#8217;s Drift against the Zulus after the disaster of  Isandhlwana.</p>
<p>Late but enthusiastic, we then headed for Chatham Dockyard where we met Val  and Kirsten. This is a huge area with many displays, in the open and in the  covered docks. Perhaps most interesting to me was the sloop <em>Gannet</em>,  built in 1878 and here restored. This is precisely the sort of vessel which made  up the bulk of the North America/West Indies Squadron when Mrs. Brassey visited  Bermuda in 1881. I&#8217;m using that situation (and those colonial policing vessels)  as the matrix on which I&#8217;m writing <em>The Way to Glory</em>&#8211;the fourth RCN  space opera, about 80% complete at the point we left for England.</p>
<p>I ran into something here that made me do another doubletake (this kept  happening to me in England). There was a large picture of Chatham Dockyard in  1777-8, basically a landscape view. I examined it with mild interest. Suddenly I  realized that I wasn&#8217;t looking at a photoprint as I&#8217;d thought, but rather the  five-by-seven foot painting itself.</p>
<p>The last thing we viewed was the Commissioner&#8217;s Garden. It wasn&#8217;t in itself  impressive, but I got a very powerful vision of a Commissioner pottering about  in his garden. There was a very old (half-rotted) tree which (after studying the  guidebook) turned out to be a 400-year old mulberry. Oliver Cromwell sat beneath  it as he watched his troops capture Rochester.</p>
<p>Then to dinner in an upscale restaurant with the Lambsheads. On the way, John  pointed out the monument to Gillingham sailor Will Adams, whom Clavell used as  the hero of Shogun, and a palm tree growing beside a house. Palms don&#8217;t flourish  in Kent (as they do in his home country, Cornwall), but they grow. It&#8217;s hard to  believe that we&#8217;re in the same latitude as Labrador.</p>
<p>And to the hotel after another thoroughly delightful and informative day.</p>
<p>April 22: We headed for London, getting a taxi into the train station  (Maidstone East) without difficulty. The train to Victoria was more or less on  time.</p>
<p>The landscape along the route is a very prosperous one. The farms have  horses, cows, and at least one herd of deer. Crops are largely hops, apples, and  the omnipresent rape (which is processed into rapeseed oil, AKA canola oil, by  the way).</p>
<p>I was struck by the fact that most buildings have chimney pots. There were a  few in Dubuque when I was growing up, but I&#8217;ve rarely seen them since.  (Incidentally, coal fires&#8211;and thus the need for chimneys&#8211;were replaced by  electric grates in London in the late &#8217;40s, so the chimney pots became a matter  of historical record. Which was fortunate, of course, because they&#8217;re back in  use now for gas fires.)</p>
<p>Roofs are generally tiled, and even those that&#8217;re shingled have tiles  covering corner seams. Brick appears to be the most common building material,  though I won&#8217;t claim to have made a scientific survey.</p>
<p>From Victoria we took a taxi to our hotel, the Holiday Inn Kensington. It&#8217;s  located close to the Natural History Museum where John works and is reasonably  located for many of the other places we hoped to visit. The room was  comfortable, though it had twin beds rather than a queen sized as I&#8217;d have  preferred.</p>
<p>The best feature of the hotel was the garden behind the building. There&#8217;s a  single open space common to it, St Stephen&#8217;s (C of E) Church, and a third  structure whose identity I couldn&#8217;t determine. There are several large  sycamores, a number of fruit trees (in flower; this was a very good time for  flowers, though John says May is even better), and extensive flower plantings.  It was an excellent place for me to sit and relax, a thing I really need to do  daily if I&#8217;m to keep it between the ditches.</p>
<p>After checking in we went just down the street to the Victoria and Albert  Museum (of the decorative arts). I&#8217;d been there in 1977 but Jo thinks she was  out shopping that day and I&#8217;d gone alone.</p>
<p>I couldn&#8217;t find the pair of six feet tall vases of blue john&#8211;fluorspar from  Derbyshire, which the Romans called myrrhine and valued highly&#8211;I&#8217;d seen in  1977, but there were some blue john candlesticks with a legend explaining that  the material had gone out of fashion till the mid 18th century. Then French  craftsmen began importing it, and British craftsmen started using it again also.  It&#8217;s a striking material, which I first learned of in an Arthur Conan Doyle  story: <em>The Terror of Blue John Gap</em>. (Though the story has nothing to do  with the mineral; a cave bear climbs out of a cavern and wreaks havoc until a  local sportsman shoots it with his express rifle. Karl Wagner swore he hadn&#8217;t  read Doyle&#8217;s story when he wrote <em>Two Suns Setting</em>.)</p>
<p>While decorative arts don&#8217;t have the same fascination for me that I find in,  say, tanks, there were any number of striking items that I jotted down and may  well use in my fiction. As a few examples: a silver tabletop engraved with Venus  giving Aeneas his shield, trimmed with tortoiseshell; a cabinet set with  thirty-odd painted glass plaques which reminded me of the decoration of a  carousel; testimonial silver, sculptures two feet high of camel riders and  elephants&#8230;.</p>
<p>And so much more, of course.</p>
<p>It was late afternoon by now, so we went next door to the Museum of Natural  History and Jo called John Lambshead from the information desk. He came down and  gave us a behind-the-scenes tour.</p>
<p>The original building&#8211;John&#8217;s office is in the addition, the Darwin  Centre&#8211;is in a way as striking as any of the exhibits. When we were there in  1977 it was black with a century of soot; it was cleaned in the &#8217;80s and is  stunningly beautiful, the stone richly decorated and picked out with layers of  contrasting blue. I took many pictures of it this time, but the massive edifice  should be seen to be fully appreciated.</p>
<p>The Darwin Centre contains the Spirit Room where&#8230; well, the NHM has a total  of sixty to eighty million specimens total; the millions preserved in alcohol  are kept here. It&#8217;s the largest such collection in the world.</p>
<p>Each department set out a number of jars in the corridor for easy view, while  the enormous ranks of other specimens are visible through the glass walls. I  noted that those responsible had obviously picked striking items: entomology had  huge spiders and centipedes, for example. The fellow in charge of mammals had a  sense of humor: if you read the card on one specimen, you learned it was a brown  rat which had been found dead outside the old Spirit Room (in a rat-infested  building which had been the cause of numerous complaints).</p>
<p>We viewed the working labs. The NHM does analysis for people who want not  only the truth but the truth in an unimpeachable fashion. They&#8217;re expensive, but  nobody argues with their findings. If you already know the answer (for example,  your oil spill did no permanent damage to the environment), or you really  want<em> to</em> know the answer whatever it is, they&#8217;re the choice.</p>
<p>I learned something about studying nematodes. I won&#8217;t go into detail, but  they&#8217;re very small and you spike them with a titanium harpoon under strong  magnification. John said on one project he looked at 10,400 of them, and a PhD  student working there was already up to 12,000 while studying the effects of the  1st Gulf War on the Persian Gulf. (The museum is hoping for a repeat order, of  course. The way our foreign policy decisions are trending, Gulf War aftermaths  may turn into a cash cow for the foreseeable future.)</p>
<p>We then went down to the tank room where large specimens are kept and  processed. (For example, stranded porpoises&#8211;which are generally killed by  French fishing boats and wash ashore dead rather than being stranded.)</p>
<p>I was interested to learn that one of the main problems is the fumes from the  goodness-knows-how-many gallons of denatured alcohol in which the specimens are  preserved. Before a big tank is opened, the fumes are drawn off with an  extractor; otherwise there&#8217;s a risk not only of fire but of the person involved  being knocked unconscious. The large dissection table has not only a drain but a  downdraft system.</p>
<p>John showed us how to use the Underground and pointed out what turned out to  be a very good Italian restaurant, where we ate before walking back to the  hotel. There we found a new problem&#8211;the lights wouldn&#8217;t go on. I started for  the desk but met a maid on the way; she showed me the slot you put your room key  in to arm the lights.</p>
<p>This is a perfectly good design&#8211;it means guests don&#8217;t waste electricity by  leaving the lights on while they&#8217;re gone&#8211;but nothing in the room explained that  nor had the staff mentioned it on check-in. As I get older, stupid failures to  give necessary information strike me increasingly as grit in the bearings of  existence. We were paying about $275/night for our room, so they might&#8217;ve been a  little more forthcoming.</p>
<p>Still and all, another full and informative day.</p>
<p>April 23: Up and breakfasted in the hotel as usual, then got day-pass tickets  to the Underground and went off to the John Soane House on Lincoln Inn Fields,  which Jo had found while reading John Morton&#8217;s <em>In Search of London</em>.  Soane was a neoclassical architect working in the sixty years around 1800. The  house was his working base and his legacy in both figurative and literal senses:  he left it to the nation on the proviso that it and the collection be kept as  they were.</p>
<p>The result is unique and wonderful. Soane had two of the finest Hogarth sets  of oils, <em>The Rake&#8217;s Progress</em> and the Election series (which Jo says  Dickens mined directly for a segment of <em>The Pickwick Papers</em>). He also  had some striking Canalettos and an unusual piece by Turner (who was a personal  friend and fishing companion).</p>
<p>The house itself, though, is the greatest wonder. The best-known Soane work  is the exterior of the Bank of England, but his real genius was in creating  usable, externally lighted, spaces of very limited compass. This is something  I&#8217;d never thought about because nowadays electric lighting makes it unnecessary.  Soane&#8217;s house shows his principles at work. A domed lantern above the striking  staircase (a flattened oval) lights the interior; there are windows onto the  interior courtyard, and internal walls have glass panels and mirrors in corners  to open up and expand rooms.</p>
<p>Soane&#8217;s library was extensive and a real, working collection rather than  books-by-the-yard to create a glamour of learning. (Actually, I was struck by  how similar the impression was to my own library&#8211;though the subjects differ.)  Soane was self-taught (a brickmason&#8217;s son); almost everything I saw was in  English or French, though the folio Pliny may well have been Latin.</p>
<p>In addition to the books were the rooms of specimens&#8211;statues, plaques,  sections of moldings and columns, and other decorative features. This wasn&#8217;t (as  I&#8217;d thought from the description) a collection for its own sake: Soane used the  items as a library of design, putting his apprentices to drawing and measuring  them as he had done himself in learning his trade.</p>
<p>His tour of Italy in 1778-80 had been greatly influential on him. A number of  items reflected this directly, including a model of the Temple of Vesta (which  he adapted to a corner of the Bank of England) and his own painting of men  digging in a bath vault, both from Hadrian&#8217;s villa at Tivoli. I&#8217;d recently set  the opening of <em>Master of the Cauldron</em> (the sixth Isles fantasy, due out  in November) in that ruined vault; for that reason and others I found myself  unexpectedly in harmony with Soane.</p>
<p>Among other items, an 1820 sculpture (I didn&#8217;t recognize and don&#8217;t recall the  name of the artist) of Camadeva and his mistress riding on a crocodile caught my  fancy. That may show up in my future writing; it was just too neat to pass  by.</p>
<p>Because his collection of paintings and drawings was so extensive, Soane  layered them on hinged panels. The piece that most impressed me was on one of  the back panels: a painting (by an employee) of Soane&#8217;s greatest accomplishment,  the Bank of England&#8211;as a ruin in a thousand years time.</p>
<p>Soane was a determined and often abrasive fellow who didn&#8217;t allow weakness in  himself nor make allowance for it in others; but in my terms, he was a man. I  have no greater praise to offer.</p>
<p>I bought quite a number of books, on Soane and the contents of the house.  It&#8217;s the only place we visited where I felt a need to do that (though of course  I did get many individual guidebooks).</p>
<p>When we&#8217;d dropped things off at the hotel, we headed for the Wallace  Collection. I&#8217;d been remiss in my planning for this one. A friend had mentioned  how much she&#8217;d enjoyed it. Jo checked Morton, who called it &#8216;a mini Louvre&#8217; and  described it as being on the edge of the streets and squares around Oxford  Street. I misheard that as &#8216;on Oxford Square&#8217;, which I found in <em>London  A-Z</em>, and we set out.</p>
<p>In fact it&#8217;s on Manchester Square some distance away, which we learned when a  helpful lady on her way shopping saw us looking puzzled. It was just a  frustration, not a big problem&#8211;as the lady said, &#8220;You&#8217;re obviously strong  walkers.&#8221;</p>
<p>The trip was interesting in an odd way, though. On the Central Line of the  Underground I was watching the map across the aisle when somebody behind me  said, &#8220;Everybody in the car, show me a valid ticket for this train.&#8221; I didn&#8217;t  think much about it, just dug the ticket out of my pocket and held it out&#8211;my  concern was getting to the right stop, not whether I&#8217;d paid for the trip.</p>
<p>Then I looked at the fellow: craggy features, about 30, short hair, and  wearing a polo shirt over jeans. He had no discernible body fat and the muscles  of his bare arms had muscles of their own. He was holding a book bag by the  strap: I suspect the only thing in it was a Browning Hi-Power, because that&#8217;s  what the SAS carries. He sure as hell wasn&#8217;t a transport inspector, and if the  Metropolitan Police have anybody that fit, they&#8217;re unique among the world&#8217;s  police forces.</p>
<p>He got out at Notting Hill Gate. I don&#8217;t know what was going on, but  something certainly was.</p>
<p>Parenthetically, British security struck me as professional and unobtrusive.  What passed for security at US airports was neither of those things.</p>
<p>We eventually found the Wallace Collection. A large number of students were  lunching on the lawn in front, but the building wasn&#8217;t unpleasantly crowded.</p>
<p>The huge Bouchers looking down on the entranceway create the initial impact.  Their cotton-candy classicism does nothing for me. Still, there were paintings  to virtually any taste, mine included. (A woman told me she&#8217;d come for the  Lucien Freuds, but that exhibition had ended a few days earlier. I must have  looked startled, because she then said, &#8220;Or aren&#8217;t you familiar with his work?&#8221;  I assured her that I did know of Lucien Freud&#8217;s work, and I <em>certainly</em> hadn&#8217;t come to see more of it.)</p>
<p>Frans Hals&#8217; <em>Laughing Cavalier</em> is in the Wallace. There are a number  of Turners, though I believe most of them were in a room that was closed for  lack of staff to watch it. I was interested to run across a couple David Roberts  paintings. I&#8217;d never seen his work apart from his extensive series of paintings  of sites in the Holy Land (which I&#8217;ve used for terrain settings in my  fiction).</p>
<p>I found quite a number of paintings evocative and jotted down notes for  possible story use. Two in particular struck me: Poussin&#8217;s <em>Dance to the  Music of Time</em>, (an allegory which I completely&#8211;but usefully&#8211;misread, as I  learned from the booklet I bought regarding it); and a Watteau titled <em>A Fete  in the Park</em> in which a number of cavaliers and ladies walk and dally in an  open woodland. Thus far any number of paintings in the building&#8211;but there was  also a larger-than-life-sized nude female painted in silver-gray, watching  unnoticed from the top of a ruined wall. Is she Love? Lust? A ghost from a  former age? Darned if I know, but she stuck in my memory.</p>
<p>One final piece deserves comment: a miniature painting of Emma, Lady  Hamilton, garbed as a Bacchante. From the picture she was a plump, pretty woman,  but not to my mind a captivating beauty. Her husband, the Duke of Hamilton,  bequeathed it to her lover Admiral Nelson in 1803.</p>
<p>The courtyard is under glass and serves an excellent tea with Devonshire  clotted cream. This differs from butter by being thickened on low heat instead  of being churned.</p>
<p>On our way back toward the hotel we stopped to view the dinosaurs and mammals  in the NHM till closing time. Then for a salad (we ate well in England, but we  didn&#8217;t get as much roughage as we would&#8217;ve at home) and pizza in the same  restaurant as the night before, and to the hotel to write up more notes.</p>
<p>Saturday, April 24, the day of Salute and the venue at which the Hammer&#8217;s  Slammers wargame rulebook would be launched, my reason for being in England. It  turned out to be a darned good reason.</p>
<p>I was nervous, and initially there were frustrations: some of the Underground  lines were closed for repairs so John Lambshead was late, and then we  misconnected at the Underground station (Gloucester Road). There were two  entrances, and we picked different ones to meet at.</p>
<p>We got to the Olympia 2 convention center at last, and then things got  amazing. Ground Zero Games, the outfit which makes the Hammer&#8217;s Slammers  figurines (OK, toy soldiers in 15 and 25-mm sizes) was set up beside the  entrance. I walked in, met Jon Tuffley and his staff, and was completely bowled  over when they handed me a professionally-painted 25-mm figurine of <em>me</em> in a Hammer&#8217;s Slammers uniform (with sub-machine gun). I couldn&#8217;t have been more  surprised if the whole hall had started singing, &#8220;For he&#8217;s a jolly good  fellow.&#8221;</p>
<p>John Treadaway, the book&#8217;s graphic designer, basically runs Salute. He&#8217;d set  things up with the publisher, Pireme (Iain Dickie) facing the entrance; GZG  kitty corner across the aisle; a display of professionally-painted vehicles and  figurines to the left of Pireme with the artist, Kevin Dallimore, working on  more; and to Kevin&#8217;s left, Old Crow (Jez) who casts the vehicles. I was given  15-mm vehicles, which I hadn&#8217;t seen before. (They were hot out of the  molds.)</p>
<p>Furthermore, John T had come up with the notion&#8211;understand, I knew<em> nothing</em> about this&#8211;of giving everybody a 25-mm David Drake if they bought  the rules book. Thus people went across the aisle from Pireme and saw the  figurines for sale as they waited for their freebie.</p>
<p>I signed the bookmarks I&#8217;d brought; they proved an even better icebreaker  here than they do in bookstore appearances. John L (who wrote the text and  rules) enthusiastically discussed the playing system. We made a good sales team,  and the professional models in front of us were stunning.</p>
<p>Iain had made up some starter packs: rules, four vehicles in 15-mm scale, and  a quantity of Slammers and opposition figurines. The package cost 57 pounds, and  he sold all fifteen that he&#8217;d brought. So did all the vehicles Old Crow had in  stock and a sufficient number of figurines to make Jon Tuffley very happy. The  launch was a triumphant success.</p>
<p>A word about the display models. Kevin is an amazingly skilled artist, but  the Slammers vehicles in bare metal went beyond that. Jez dusted the inside of  his molds with powdered aluminum, then cast the resin on top of it. Kevin buffed  what was actually a metal finish before doing the detail painting (rust on the  skirts, oil stains, dirt, etc). Even I could see the difference in comparison to  vehicles which&#8217;d simply been (expertly) painted.</p>
<p>A number of people asked me if it was strange to see my mental images as  physical reality. In fact it&#8217;s stranger than that, because I had only the  sketchiest images before the start of this. I didn&#8217;t really look at the tanks  and ACAVs I was riding in 1970: I was looking <em>from</em> them, watching for  problems at the tree line. It wasn&#8217;t till John T started asking me questions  that the visuals coalesced.</p>
<p>I met a lot of fans who knew me through their interest in wargaming, not SF.  There were a few Americans also, mostly military personnel. They&#8217;re real people  doing a real job; and the fact they&#8217;re my fans helps convince me of the thing  that I never quite believe: I&#8217;m real too.</p>
<p>Jo went off with Val to Kensington Palace and Garden in the afternoon. John T  took me around the whole show. It&#8217;s huge&#8211;three levels full of stands and  people&#8211;but in the order of 5K people rather than the 50K I was afraid of. (It&#8217;s  Olympia 2, not the combined complex.)</p>
<p>Salute is basically a trade show where wargamers come to buy and sell books  and equipment, but there are club displays and also demonstration games put on  by manufacturers. I won&#8217;t try to describe a fraction of the displays, but there  was an amazingly detailed one of an action in the British breakout from Normandy  in 1944; a multi-level game (run unusually by a group of women) involving flying  pigs and armed sheep; a club from Dortmund, Germany, with a game based on the  1942 battle for Henderson Field on Guadalcanal; and the one that absolutely blew  my mind: the 1644 Battle of Naseby in the English Civil War, done in 6-mm scale  at one to one. That is, there were 3000 individually painted figures on a board  about six feet by twenty.</p>
<p>I picked up a few books and took a few pictures&#8211;none that really do justice  to the displays, I&#8217;d have to say. I had a remarkably good time and got many  positive strokes. The team involved in the Hammer&#8217;s Slammers game couldn&#8217;t have  been nicer or more pleasant to be around.</p>
<p>John and Val had to go back to Kirsten, so Jo and I found another good  restaurant (also Italian, as it chanced) and had dinner. When we wandered out I  found an internet cafe (for the first time in my life) and learned that all was  still well. (We have pets and I worry about them.)</p>
<p>April 25: We had an adventure. When I was 14 or so I&#8217;d read of the concrete  dinosaurs built by Waterhouse Hawkins in 1854 when the Crystal Palace was moved  from Hyde Park to SE London (technically in Kent, as a matter of fact). They  still exist, and I decided to go see them.</p>
<p>This doesn&#8217;t look difficult in <em>London A-Z</em>, but London is a  <em>huge</em> city. More important, the SE is a poor area (Jo pointed out that  you could judge the district&#8217;s economic status by the fact that closed shops  were covered by locked steel shutters&#8211;unlike those of Kensington) and the  Underground doesn&#8217;t run to it. John L got me a (surface) railway timetable,  however.</p>
<p>The problem was that not only the Underground but the rail net was being  worked on. We were put out at Balham to take a bus the rest of the way. We were  completely befuddled, but so were the Londoners caught in the same bind. The  transport officials in Balham gave short, non-communicative, answers.</p>
<p>But the bus came and very slowly trundled its way toward Crystal Palace. It  was a lengthy journey, but not uninteresting. Eventually we were put out near  the station where we&#8217;d have normally gotten off the train.</p>
<p>Which left the problem of how the hell to get into the grounds, to where my  webmaster, Karen, had determined the dinosaur court to be. Crystal Palace has a  huge soccer stadium, and the grounds are separated from the train station by  chain-link fence. We walked, asked questions, walked more, and eventually got to  where we wanted to be.</p>
<p>Which was well worth the considerable effort. There were more, and more  varied, critters than I&#8217;d realized. Besides the dinosaurs they included Ice Age  mammals looking much like modern restorations, and labyrinthodont amphibians  restored as viciously toothed toads instead of salamanders as they&#8217;d be today.  For that matter, I hadn&#8217;t realized there was a hyleosaur (a European dinosaur  akin to the North American stegosaur) as well as the iguanodonts being  threatened by a megalosaur. I wonder if the hyleosaur isn&#8217;t mentioned because  the restoration is basically accurate, while Hawkins (and Richard Owen, his  expert) got the other two dinosaurs wildly wrong.</p>
<p>I took many pictures and basically had a wonderful time. (I also got a  picture of a moorhen nesting on a branch in one of the site&#8217;s water features.)  We went through the restored maze (the only hornbeam maze in England!) and then  took the bus slowly back to Balham and the train.</p>
<p>We wound up walking from Victoria because the crowded Underground made Jo too  uncomfortable to ride. We got briefly off course but managed to find Cromwell  Road eventually.</p>
<p>On the way to the hotel we stopped at the NHM and stayed till closing, going  through among others the invertebrate and some of the mineral sections. Much of  the museum has been modernized with interactive displays and lots of bill-board  type information, teaching the visitor about (say) primates or evolution. The  mineral sections are old-style, with ranks and ranks of specimens in glass  cases.</p>
<p>I think the old way is better. The modernized sections do nothing that can&#8217;t  be done better and more easily with books or on-line. Nothing but a museum case  will show you the variation in a hundred specimens of aragonite. (But I&#8217;m  personally conservative, which I&#8217;m sure biases my attitude.)</p>
<p>I finished the 256M card in my camera here and changed it for the 128M card I  brought as a backup. The batteries (four AAs) held up fine.</p>
<p>We relaxed in the room, then went out to find another (as it chanced) Italian  restaurant. We got there at 6:30, which appears to be early for England as we  had the place to ourselves till we were almost ready to leave. One of the  specials was squid, which of course I had; and quite good it was.</p>
<p>Despite the predictions, the weather in Kent was occasionally drizzly and  that in London warm and sunny. We couldn&#8217;t have asked for better, though we&#8217;d  have managed regardless.</p>
<p>April 26: We&#8217;d packed the night before, so it was just a matter of carrying  our bags to the Glouchester Road Underground station to catch a cab (which was  impossible in front of the hotel at 9:30 AM). We arrived at Victoria and got the  Gatwick Express, expensive but very simple and therefore worth what it cost.  There was no problem with British security, and the flight (though full) was on  time and without incident. A Trans-Atlantic flight isn&#8217;t ever going to be my  idea of a good time, but I read the illustrated biography of John Soane and have  no complaints about anything till we arrived in Philadelphia. Then it got  unpleasant.</p>
<p>Passengers are dumped off with minimal direction and proceed through lengthy  corridors and slide belts. No one from US Airways or the airport itself was  present to give guidance. We suddenly arrived at Security, though we hadn&#8217;t been  out of security since arrival in Gatwick. I was instantly told to take off my  shoes&#8211;which hadn&#8217;t been necessary in Britain&#8211;and was the subject of lengthy  concern, this time over my antique shaving kit (from which I&#8217;d removed the razor  blade). I guess it&#8217;s my karma; perhaps in a former life I was an unusually  stupid and officious security person.</p>
<p>After another lengthy walk carrying our baggage, we got to the gate for the  flight back to RDU. The flight left at 5:30 PM; it was 4:30 in Philadelphia,  according to the way I&#8217;d reset my watch (back five hours from London). I handed  the clerk our boarding cards, deeply thankful that we&#8217;d made it in time.</p>
<p>The clerk typed silently for a while, looking unhappy. He then tore up our  boarding cards, telling us we&#8217;d missed the flight. We could get on the 7:20 PM  flight.</p>
<p>I was flabbergasted and horrified. I protested that it was 4:30 and the  flight shouldn&#8217;t have left for another hour. He then actually looked at our  tickets for the first time and told us he&#8217;d thought we were on a different  flight, that he&#8217;d reissue our boarding cards. I had a vision of Emily Littela  reincarnated as a flaming queen, saying, &#8220;Never mind.&#8221;</p>
<p>He then took serious offense when I said, calmly but disgustedly, that his  actions were in keeping with the callous disregard the rest of the US Air staff  in Philadelphia was showing for its passengers. Without wishing ill to another  human being, I hope he&#8217;s treated in the fashion he treated us after he gets off  an 8-hour flight.</p>
<p>The flight to RDU was unexceptionable. We caught the shuttle to the lot where  we&#8217;d left the car. Jo drove us home, which was sparklingly clean&#8211;our  housesitter had outdone herself.</p>
<p>It was a wonderful trip, but it&#8217;s good to be back.</p>
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